Rok Hwang’s collection took shape around a crumbling house in the Avenue Marceau—a 19th century maison which is mid-conversion. He’d visited the venue earlier in the year and been visually inspired by the cracked plasterwork being stripped back and the sense of layered history about the place.
He used that starting point to go into the idea of intersecting his archetypical trench coats and tailoring with zippered panels which peel away—and most strikingly, were fused with ballooning chiffon capes and bubble skirts.
Where other designers are thinking about simplicity and paring back this season, Hwang’s instinct has been the opposite. Fair enough: fashion needs outliers; if everyone does the same thing, then boredom and homogenization set in.
He’s doing menswear too: classic flannel coats and jackets sliced open at the midriff or chest with multiple zips. They were accompanied by some great looking bootcut high waist trousers.
Hwang’s experimentation looked more wearable towards the evening. His deconstruction of a man’s tailored jacket resolved itself into a slim, elegant black evening dress. Edwardian micro-flowers proliferated over the best of the trench-bubbles, and on a tiny shirt and an irregularly pouffed skirt.
Best of all: the surprise of a swathed, draped black dress with a ballooned ball skirt. At a distance, it looked like it might have been made of trash bags, but it transpired to be some sort of glossy techno-velvet. Hwang isn’t a joiner-upper to trend, but that one totally fits with the rise of neo goth fashion that’s going around amongst young people.
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